Being proud of the texture of hair you were born with is something that has FINALLY become a trend in the 21st century. After centuries of being shamed, ridiculed or deemed “less pretty” for not having the right texture of hair, much less skin color, women today are standing up and showing off every kink, curl and wave in all its glory! Even as little girls, the tradition of mothers and sisters sitting with us and lovingly braiding our hair into cornrows or plaits has deeper roots than you may know.
Over 5,000 years ago women in Northern Africa were using artistic forms of expression with their braids and hairstyles to indicate their social status. For instance, the Fula women of the Sahel region of Africa identified their heritage with five long braids down the back of the head with small tufts of hair gathered at the crown. Another style of the Fula women incorporated beautiful disks of amber and silver they wore as hair accessories on their shoulder-length braids. Much of this history and their traditions were lost until ancient stone paintings were discovered and one photographer made it in his life’s work.
The Ojeikere Photographs
In 1930 Johnson Donatus Aihumekeokhai Ojeikere (J.D. 'Okhai Ojeikere) was born in Ovbiomu-Emai, a rural village in South-Western Nigeria. He worked and lived in Ketu, Nigeria. At the age of twenty, he pursued a future in photography, which was out of the ordinary for people in Nigeria, especially those in his village. Cameras were not of high demand and were of low priority as they were considered a luxury. However, 'Okhai Ojeikere was passionate about photography and in 1950 bought a modest Brownie D camera without flash, and had a friend teach him the fundamentals of photography.
When he passed away on February 2nd, 2014 at the age of 83, thousands of photos were discovered tucked away in boxes and filing cabinets. These photos depicted the amazing and complex hairdos favored by Nigerian women from the 1950s to the 1970s. Well before Avante Garde hair was hitting the pages of vogue, these beautiful women sported truly amazing and beautifully sculpted intricate weaves that are still inspiring today.
Hair Extensions as Tribal Tradition
Even in the 21st century, it may surprise that in such a connected world there are whole tribes who are considered “lost”, rarely seen, much less traveled to. In 2017 a London photographer named Tariq Zaidi set out to the southern African country of Angola to photograph and capture the life and beauty of some of these lost tribes. Arriving there, he was in awe of the beautiful and intricate hairstyles worn by the women of the tribe and was even more surprised to find out that they were hand made extensions! Fashioned from hay, goat hair, and even human hair gifted by loved one alive and now deceased. Nowadays, bulk hair for braiding can be used to achieve modern-day braided hairstyles.
Much More than Just a Braid
They are more cornrows, plaits or braids…they are a rich and ancestral tradition that until recent years became acceptable in schools and workplaces in the United States. They are an expression of self-love, history, and acceptance of who we are and in a world struggling right over larger issues of acceptance, love, and discrimination, love your texture. It’s your birthright. If you're not sure where to start, learn how to braid with human hair extensions first!
The CROWN Act and the Modern Fight for Natural Hair
The history of braids in America isn't only ancient history. As recently as the early 2020s, Black women and girls were facing discrimination for wearing braids, locs, and other natural hairstyles in workplaces and schools. The CROWN Act (Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair) was introduced to address this reality - making it illegal in many states to discriminate based on hair texture and protective styles including braids, twists, and locs.
The fight for the CROWN Act is a direct extension of the history above. Braids have always carried cultural weight, identity, and meaning. The attempt to legislate natural Black hair as "unprofessional" is part of a long pattern of erasure - and the CROWN Act is part of the ongoing reclamation.
"When I started Perfect Locks over 20 years ago, I wanted to celebrate all hair textures and all types of beauty. The history of braids is a history of resilience and artistry. We're honored to be even a small part of that tradition by offering high-quality braiding hair extensions that let women express themselves fully."
- Priyanka Swamy, Founder of Perfect Locks
Braids in Modern Hair Culture
Today, braided hairstyles exist at the intersection of deep cultural tradition and modern creativity. Micro braids, knotless box braids, feed-in braids, butterfly locs, Fulani braids, and goddess braids are all expressions of this living tradition that continues to evolve with each generation.
The viral spread of braided hairstyles on social media has introduced these styles to people around the world - which brings ongoing conversations about cultural appreciation vs. appropriation. Understanding the history of where braids come from and what they have meant to African and African diaspora communities is important context for anyone engaging with these styles.
Using Extensions in Braided Styles
Hair extensions have been part of braiding traditions for centuries. In many African cultures, adding fiber, wool, or additional human hair to braids was done to create length, volume, and more elaborate designs. Today, braiding hair extensions serve the same purpose - allowing styles that would be impossible with natural hair alone and protecting the natural hair underneath.
If you're looking to add extensions to braided styles, the most important consideration is weight. Heavy extension hair puts tension on the natural hairline and roots, which can cause traction alopecia over time. Choose lightweight braiding hair and make sure your stylist isn't braiding too tightly, particularly around the edges.
Frequently Asked Questions About Braiding History
Who invented braids?
Braids have been documented in multiple cultures across the world independently, but some of the earliest known evidence comes from Africa, dating back over 5,000 years. Cave paintings in the Tassili n'Ajjer region of Algeria show women with braided hair, and ancient Egyptian artifacts depict elaborately braided hairstyles. Braiding traditions also developed independently in many other cultures across Asia, Europe, and the Americas.
What is the cultural significance of braids?
In many African cultures, braids communicated social status, age, tribe affiliation, marital status, and even messages between communities. During the transatlantic slave trade, braiding was used as a form of resistance and communication - and braids became a way for enslaved people to hold onto cultural identity and connection to their heritage.
Are braids a protective hairstyle?
Yes - braids are one of the most well-established protective hairstyles. By keeping the ends of the hair tucked away and reducing daily manipulation, braids allow the hair to retain length and recover from styling stress. However, they only protect when installed correctly - braids that are too tight can cause traction alopecia and actually damage the hairline over time.
What is the history of box braids specifically?
Box braids have roots in ancient Africa and have been worn in various forms for thousands of years. They gained particularly strong cultural presence in African American communities during the 1990s, becoming a mainstream protective style associated with natural hair care. The "box" in box braids refers to the square or box-shaped parts used to section the hair before braiding.
What is the significance of cornrows?
Cornrows - braids that lie flat against the scalp in rows - have deep roots in West African culture and were a major element of the communication networks among enslaved Africans in the Americas. They were also a way to carry seeds hidden in the hair for future planting. Cornrows represent an enduring form of cultural continuity and resistance.
Braiding is one of humanity's oldest and most beautiful art forms. Understanding its roots only deepens the appreciation for the skill, tradition, and creativity that goes into these styles today.
Author and Founder of Perfect Locks LLC
Priyanka Swamy, the visionary founder of Perfect Locks LLC, is a passionate advocate for empowering women and promoting cultural diversity. With an unwavering commitment to ethical sourcing and quality craftsmanship, she redefined the hair extension market and created a supportive community that celebrates individuality.
Priyanka's dedication to sustainability and social responsibility continues to inspire positive change within the industry. Her journey with Perfect Locks remains an inspiration, unlocking the true potential and confidence of countless individuals worldwide.
